It's been just over two weeks since we've left Kalymnos. Although it may be fifteen degrees colder here and we are not surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, the landscape here in Rodellar, Spain is just as beautiful. As I sit here writing this post I am reminded why so many climbers chose Rodellar to hang up their hats for a few months. The amount of sheer rock here is insane! We spent the first week of our time here just exploring the different crags and trying as many fun looking lines as possible. We have now been here just over two weeks and we still haven't climbed at all the areas but we have chosen a few specific areas (Ventanas, Surgencia and Prince Sans Rire) that we have been trying the more difficult routes we are hoping to get done before we head to Siruana.
I was actually in Rodellar four years ago with my family, friends as well as my former coach and climber extraordinaire Dung Nguyen. It was one of my first times outdoor climbing for much more then a day here and there on a weekend, Rodellar was where I sent my first 5.12a, the first time I took a big whipper outside and where I first became mesmerized with outdoor climbing. It's been really cool being back four years later and warming up on routes I struggled to even make it to the top of. The first thing I said looking at my old 12a project was "oh my god it's so short" (even though it's over 20m) . Lots has changed since the trip four years ago but the one thing that says the same is the reason I'm here, because I love to climb.
We now still have two weeks left here to enjoy. Which is a wonderful thing because I have not sent my projects, actually come to think of it the only thing I send each day of climbing are my warmups, if I'm lucky ;) haha. I am currently working on a route called El Chorreras la belle inconue which is a beautiful overhanging 5.13d (8b) . The crux itself is only five or so meters from the top so as you can imagine it's hard to feel fresh enough to do it after just under 30m of climbing below. But if conditions stay okay (it's been raining) and I can milk the shitty rest before the crux and give it my all I think it will go very soon. I was initially trying a world known route called Les Chacales 5.13d (8b) but I am three inches too short to reach a big bump move coming out of the crux...I found alternate beta for myself that requires me to do a very big cross off a two finger half pad undercling. But this sequence is really physically taxing and after I complete it, I am just too exhausted and pumped to do the top big moves on the route. So for now I have left the route and if I have time at the end of our stay I may go back to work on it some more. Yesterday we also tried a 5.14a (8b+) called Iexia. We have been wanting to get on it sooner but it's been quite wet, it for sure feels like next level but doable, If not in these next two weeks when I am back next time :) above all it just feels awesome to try hard!
That is all for now! If you guys are interested in seeing more about the trip I am updating Facebook and Instagram quite regularly with posts/photos :)
Until next time,